How to Clean a Dildo (and Every Other Sex Toy): A Material-by-Material Guide

Toy hygiene is one of those topics where the marketing complicates a simple problem. Most of cleaning is mild soap and warm water; the details that actually matter are the material (porous vs. non-porous), the motor (waterproof rating), and the between-uses rules (partners, body sites, storage). This guide is the short version.

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Why cleaning matters more than people think

Sex toys regularly come into contact with body fluids, skin bacteria, and yeast — anything that lives on the skin or in mucous membranes ends up on the toy. Without proper cleaning:

• Bacterial UTIs — most often from E. coli transferred between body sites or from inadequate cleaning. Survey data on toy users finds UTI rates measurably elevated in women who clean inconsistently.
• Yeast infections — Candida overgrowth from biofilm on porous surfaces.
• Bacterial vaginosis — bacterial-balance disruption, often associated with shared toys or under-cleaned toys.
• STI transmission — toys can transmit HSV, HPV, hepatitis, and other STIs between partners. Sterilization-grade cleaning eliminates this; soap-and-water cleaning reduces but doesn't eliminate it.

The 30 seconds it takes to clean prevents most of this. The boring discipline is the entire intervention.

The material-by-material guide

Medical-grade silicone

The most common body-safe material. Non-porous, durable, sterilizable.

• Daily clean: mild unscented soap + warm water, 20–30 seconds, rinse thoroughly. Pat dry or air-dry on a clean towel.
• Periodic deep clean: boil for 3 minutes (no detergent, no other items in the water), or top-rack dishwasher without soap.
• Sterilize for partner switching: boil 3 minutes, or 10% bleach solution soak for 10 minutes followed by thorough rinse.
• Avoid: alcohol-based cleaners (degrade silicone surface over time), scented soaps (can cause irritation), silicone lube (causes silicone-on-silicone surface degradation).

Caveat: only fully waterproof, non-motorized silicone toys can be boiled. Motorized silicone toys cannot be submerged unless rated IPX7.

Borosilicate glass and stainless steel

Both fully non-porous and inert. Easiest materials to clean.

• Daily clean: soap and warm water, or run through dishwasher top rack. Both materials handle dishwasher heat fine.
• Sterilize: boil 3 minutes, or bleach soak. Glass and steel tolerate temperature shock less than silicone — let them cool naturally rather than rinsing in cold water immediately.
• Inspect glass before each use for chips or cracks — cracked glass should be retired immediately.

ABS plastic

Hard plastic — non-porous but heat-sensitive.

• Daily clean: soap and warm water.
• Don't: boil (can warp). Use cleaner spray or alcohol-free toy cleaner for deeper sanitation.

Porous materials (jelly, PVC, TPR/TPE, "rubber")

The honest truth: porous toys cannot be truly disinfected. Bacteria embed in micropores below the surface. You can reduce surface bacteria but not eliminate them.

• Daily clean: soap and warm water — best you can do.
• Use solo only. Don't share porous toys between partners.
• Use with a condom if there's any uncertainty about cleaning history or partner exposure.
• Replace every 6–12 months. The material itself degrades and becomes increasingly bacterial regardless of cleaning effort.
• Better long term: upgrade to silicone or glass on next purchase.

Motorized toys: the waterproof question

Vibrators, app-controlled toys, anything with a motor have additional rules. Check the IP rating:

• IPX7: fully submersible. Boil-safe (briefly) for the silicone shell, but not all manufacturers recommend it — check the manual. Safe to clean under running water and submerge.
• IPX4–IPX6: splash-resistant. Wipe down with a damp cloth and toy cleaner spray. Don't submerge.
• No rating / "splashproof": assume not submersible. Damp cloth and toy cleaner only; never near the charging port.

The charging port is almost always the failure point — water entering it kills the electronics. Even on IPX7 toys, dry the port carefully before charging.

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The "between" rules

Some uses change the cleaning requirement:

• Between partners: sterilize (boil/bleach for non-porous; condom-cover or replace for porous). Soap-and-water is not enough between partners.
• Between body sites in the same person. Especially anal → vaginal, this is a UTI vector. Either fully sanitize between sites or use separate toys.
• Between sessions of the same person, same site: standard daily clean is fine. Don't over-sanitize — bleach soaks every day will degrade silicone over time.

Storage

• Fully dry first. Trapped moisture is the second most common cause of toy damage and bacterial growth (after motor failure).
• Cotton or silk pouch. Most quality toys ship with one — keeps dust off, allows airflow.
• Separate silicone toys. Two silicone surfaces in long contact can chemically react and cause surface damage. Individual pouches solve this.
• Cool, dry, away from direct sunlight. UV degrades silicone over years. A drawer or closet is fine.
• Don't store batteries inside motorized toys long-term — corrosion. Remove rechargeable toys from charger when full and store at ~50% charge if not used for months.

What not to use

• Bleach undiluted. Will damage silicone and skin. 10% solution (1 part bleach to 9 parts water) is the disinfection standard.
• Alcohol-based cleaners on silicone. Surface degradation over time.
• Antibacterial soap with triclosan. Skin-irritating residue. Plain unscented soap is better.
• Vinegar. Acidic — disrupts vaginal pH and can cause irritation if any residue remains.
• Hand sanitizer. Too harsh for genital contact, doesn't remove organic material like soap does.
• Dishwasher soap. Residual detergent is irritating to mucous membranes — that's why the dishwasher method calls for top rack with no soap.

For more on what to buy that's actually worth cleaning, see our guide on dildo materials and what to look for.

FAQ: cleaning sex toys

Can I just rinse my toy with water and skip the soap?
Not reliably. Water alone removes some surface debris but not lipid-soluble residues or bacteria. Mild soap is necessary every time.

Can I boil my vibrator?
Generally no. Only fully waterproof, non-motorized toys can be boiled — the motor and electronics fail at boiling temperatures. Use a damp cloth and toy cleaner instead.

How do I clean a porous toy properly?
You can't, fully. Soap and water reduces surface bacteria, but the pores hold residual bacteria that re-emerge over time. Best approach: use solo only, condom-cover when in doubt, replace every 6–12 months.

Is dishwasher cleaning safe?
For non-motorized silicone, glass, and metal — yes, top rack, no detergent. For motorized toys — no.

Can I share a toy with a partner?
With non-porous toys, yes — provided full sterilization between users (boil, bleach soak, or autoclave-grade toy cleaner). With porous toys, use a fresh condom each time or don't share.

How often should I deep-clean?
Light cleaning every use; deep clean (boil or bleach soak for non-porous toys) once a month or after any high-exposure session. Routine soap-and-water suffices for most everyday use.

What's the difference between sex toy cleaner and regular soap?
Toy cleaners are formulated alcohol-free, fragrance-free, and pH-balanced — gentler on materials and bodies. Mild unscented soap is functionally similar; toy cleaner is more convenient (spray-and-wipe, no rinsing).

Bottom line

Cleaning sex toys is mostly soap and warm water, plus material-specific deep cleaning periodically and full sterilization between partners or body sites. The 30 seconds per use prevents the entire category of toy-related infections. Storage in a cool, dry place — and not buying porous toys in the first place — solve most of the rest.